Fall
of 2006
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Here are two pictures of what The Beast
looked like once I got her home. Nothing worked,
initially. No head or tail lights, horn, or turn signals.
With a little work (and a battery) we had lights and an
engine that ran . . . sorta.
The
discoloration in the front glass is actually the laminate
inside the glass going bad.
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Even after a vacuuming the interior was a
mess. The second pic shows the old rusted out rear
can-type tail lamps. Meanwhile, I got the turnsignals to
finally work.
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After removing the old plywood
sides I'm still left with lots of leaves and other
debris. Looks like a job for the power washer!
The front end
shook like a CA earthquake between speeds of 30 to 35.
Rotating the tires solved that problem, but I was shocked
to discover that the rag joint (in the steering column)
was 90% torn in two. Complete steering failure if that
severs.
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After a hosing down with the power
washer I can seek a little more than just dirt and rust!
The metal
fuel line was paper thin and began to leak. It was
quickly replaced (I couldn't afford to lose the gas!). I
also replaced the fuel filter and pump.
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I even power
washed the interior! Note the funky white bucket seat
coupled with a very odd looking gold seat stolen from
someone's boat.
About this
time I replaced the heater and radiator hoses and flushed
out the heater core and installed new heater ducts.
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Replaced the rusted out tail lamps with new
ones. These are readily available in the same design
fastened with three screws each.
The lamps had
to be totally rewired. At some point in the past someone
had attempted to do so with a brown extension cord! That
had to be replaced with automotive wire. We also had to
replace both front headlights and rewire the high beam
switch.
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A neighbor supplied some old
2"x8"s that were already cut to nearly the
right length. I would use these for new side rails.
All along the
goal was to spend as little money as possible on this
project, so I depended much on donated materials and
parts from friends.
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The finished side rails await a fresh coat
of black paint.
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I was intent on saving as much of the steel
in this American classic as I could, so I purchased a
gallon of rust converter and a quart of Magnet Paint's
Chassis Saver. The rust converter seemed to do the trick
on the frame rails. I was saving the Chassis Saver for
the underside and interior of the cab.
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How about a
diesel exhaust stack with a flapper purchased at the
local Tractor Supply? The second pic shows the vertically
installed muffler, one of several parts purloined off of
AMC donor cars.
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The nearly finished and freshly painted side
rails.
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Here you can see the thick Chassis Saver
paint under the cab. This paint can be applied right over
rust. I highly recommend it, but be forewarned, wear old
clothes and gloves. I ruined a brand new ASU T-shirt and
it took two weeks for the stuff to wear off my hands!
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The floor
board also needed attention. Two pieces of sheet metal,
some driveway patch, followed by a coat of Chassis Saver.
Both back
corners of the cab on each side of the fuel tank were
rotted through. I filled both holes with copious amounts
of expanding foam sealant and covered that with Chassis
Saver inside and out.
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The seat and seatbelts came from a 1978 AMC
Matador donor car. Two 4x4s helped raise the seat to a
comfortable position. When it came time to install the
seatbelts,however, I was dismayed to find out that
raising the seat height made the seatbelts too short. Two
8" pieces of chain were used as extensions.
I also
covered the ugly expanding foam sealant with some
12" wide 3M rubberized roofing "tape." It
has a pre-applied adhesive on one side and covered the
rear of the cab quite nicely. The cab is fairly air-tight
now!
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The horn didn't work. Pondering what to do
about this resulted in an epiphany: how about an air
horn? A real one! After a few bids on Ebay I acquired a
vintage single trumpet about two feet long off an old
semi. The air source is a 7 gallon tank behind the cab.
80 to 100 pounds of air and a pull on the cord (third
pic) gets lots of attention!
I later added
a second smaller set of horns to the left of the single
trumpet for asthetic purposes.
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Winter of 2006-07
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The steel on
the flat bed was thin and rusting through in places. Some
strand board, bolts and black paint made a nice
inexpensive floor. Note the blue air tank for the air
horn.
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The Beast has
come a long way to this point! With the addition of a new
antenna and speaker the AM radio works fine.
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Three
pictures taken on my birthday, February 2, 2007. You can
see the additional set of non-functional air horns to the
left (driver's side) of the single trumpet. Note the bed
full of snow in the third picture.
As of the
above date The Beast is grounded. I had removed her
carburator the day before in order to rebuild it.
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Carb
Rebuild, Part One
A helpful
voice from BAT Auto Tech (www.batauto.com) suggested that
I take pictures of the rebuild process. I'm exceedingly
glad that I did as the carb kit had extra parts and the
diagram was a bit confusing. So being my first time
rebuilding a carb, the pictures were very helpful.
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Carb
Rebuild, Part Two
I did the
rebuild with my laptop computer next to me so that I
could toggle through the pictures I had taken of the carb
at several stages of disassembly.
The auto
mechanics at the BAT Auto Tech website were indispensible
in helping me work through this project. In my opinon,
this is the best automotive site on the web.
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Carb Rebuild, Part Three
Here's a
picture set of the finished product. I can hardly believe
how good the truck runs now and I'm glad that I took on
the project of rebuilding it myself. Not only did I save
about $100.00, but there's satisfaction in knowing that I
did it myself and still have the original Rochester
MonoJet carb on the vehicle.
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Spring of 2007
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I decided to
paint the Beast. Before I did that, I figured I would do
some minor body work to slow down the progression of the
rust.
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Nothing fancy or
too perfect. About this time I added an HEI ignition.
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This fender had
more holes that a slice of Swiss Cheese!
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I was missing
about 1/3 of the letters spelling "CHEVROLET."
I decided to fill in the holes and leave the lone
"R."
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I got a good
deal on these used 16" rims and tires off of Craig's
List. They are taller and the ride is much improved.
Seems to have helped with the gearing and gas mileage -
although the mpg couldn't have gotten much worse!
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The body work is
just about done. Now she's ready for a coat of paint! I
now have almost $1,000 into this project.
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Paint,
Part One
I decided to
go with machinery paint from the local Tractor Supply
store. The stuff is durable and goes on nicely, smoothing
out while drying.
You might
note the new exhaust stack visible in both pictures. I
was backing up and caught the old one in a tree limb!
This one's taller and greater in diameter. I'll have to
watch the trees better!
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Paint,
Part Two
A friend
volunteered to help me spray the truck, but I have always
wanted something worthy of a painting with a brush. Yeah,
sounds silly, but not as bad as a car I once saw covered
completely with duct tape! (I had a friend in High School
whose brother painted their old truck with a dozen cans
of silver spray paint. Didn't look so good.)
But this is a
winter truck and the paint is really more for protection
from the elements. This paint is so good to work with.
The brush marks virtually disappear when it dries. Hey,
it's a beast.
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Paint,
Part Three
I figured
that I would paint the front headlight doors and grill
area white. It actually looks pretty good as you can tell
from the bottom picture. I filled in the grill with black
paint.
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